Day 34 - We rode east along the coastline and then southward up the mountain range that divides the Caspian Sea from the central plains of Iran. The journey took us within only hours from -10m elevation at the coast at Tonekabon to over 3200 m in the mountains. The path was primarily gravel and hard mud, and unfortunately, our visibility was quite limited due to thick mist, even at the summit. We continued onward, and shortly after, the mist lifted, revealing a breathtaking panorama of the mountain range just north of Tehran. The images cannot capture the beauty of what we saw. We both agreed that this was likely one of the most stunning views we encountered during our travels. Being up here in the Iranian mountains at 3000 m altitude just a few hours north of Tehran, was truly an awe-inspiring experience. The elevated plains here are part of Iran's Silk Road, linking Tehran to the sea and Azerbaïdjan. We set up camp close to the Pichebon Caravanserai and managed to crack open our alcohol-free beers for an apéro just before the sun set behind the peaks.
Day 35 - Onward to Tehran! We packed up our camp and set off, eager to arrive in Tehran by evening. The route led us through the mountains down to Qazvin, and from there, it was a straight shot to Tehran. The stones in the mountains were again more reddish and sandy compared to the coastal side, opening up into what seemed as hundreds of valleys. Down below, rice fields wherever we saw. Along the way, we took a break at a small home style restaurant with a stunning view of the valleys below, where we enjoyed a delicious Persian-style tomato omelette accompanied by fresh onion and lavash, the thinnest Iranian bread. Reaching Tehran has always been a dream of mine, and it felt incredible to roll into the city on the eve of my birthday after traveling over 8000 km.
Day 36 - "Embassy closed. Come back Sunday". That was unfortunate news. We got to the Afghan embassy in Tehran bright and early to sort out our visas for Afghanistan. However, it seems to be a recurring theme on our journey: in nearly every country we visit, there are some kind of holidays just about when we need to get things done and the offices are closed. This time, it’s the Eid celebrations this week, and the Taliban are on holiday. We have two choices: either stay in Tehran until Sunday, which would set our trip back by 5 days, or head east to Mashhad to get our visas processed there. We opt to spend a few days in Tehran to explore the city and prepare our bikes for the next part of our journey. It’s a perfect opportunity to check out the Persian carpet artisans in Tehran's Grand Bazaar and savor some Persian cuisine at Vakil Tojjar restaurant for my birthday.
how is iran? where next to?