Riding into Wakhan Valley
Days 69 and 70, 13110 km
Day 69 - After just an hour of driving this morning, we are reaching Khorog, the capital of the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region. We can either head east on the M41 or take a detour into the Wakhan Valley, going further south and then east, all along the Tajik-Afghan border. We choose the latter option. The Wakhan Valley is a secluded, mountainous area famous for its breathtaking scenery, featuring towering peaks, deep river valleys, and glaciers. This valley has a rich historical significance, having been an essential part of the Silk Road and a buffer zone between the Russian and British empires in the past. The Wakhan Corridor, a narrow strip of mountainous land on the Afghan side, separates Tajikistan to the north from Pakistan to the south, and China to the east. In Khorog, we lost track of time at a lovely café and realized we only had an hour left to ride. Wild camping in the border area is not advisable due to the presence of numerous Tajik military patrols. We were fortunate to meet Akim, a local mountain guide, who kindly invited us for dinner and to stay overnight at his home. We had an incredible night at his place, sleeping outside on cozy rugs beneath the apricot trees and the starry sky.
Day 70 - Our day began with a refreshing soak at the Garam Chashma hot springs. Since we hadn't had a shower since departing Dushanbe, this much-needed cleanup was a delight. The natural hot spring water is also healthy for the skin. Men and women alternate every hour in the bath, so we found ourselves sharing the large natural hot tub with about two dozen naked Tadjiks. No comment. So: As we traveled south, the valley became narrow, rocky, and rugged. After about an hour, the valley curved eastward and opened up to a wide plateau, with Tadjikistan on our left and Afghanistan on our right, divided by the now broad river. As we had observed earlier in our journey, the Afghans utilize the river for irrigating their farmland, resulting in villages nestled in lush green areas along the riverbanks. The scenery is topped by the snowy peaks of the Afghan and Pakistani mountain systems. The road was predominantly gravel, often rough to navigate, interspersed with sandy sections and large stones. While not technically challenging, it was sure tiring to ride. The great views made up for it.
Day 70 cont. - Here are additional photos from the incredible drive through Wakhan Valley, where the Afghani villages are beautifully situated in the vibrant green pastures between the border river and the mountains. Tadjik military observation posts were placed every 500 meters, and we managed to peek through one of them to see what a Tadjik soldier would see of Afghanistan while observing the Afghanistan behind the stone walls.
Day 70 cont. - You rarely ride solo, and this time we encountered fellow adventure riders Sally and Ethan on our journey into the Wakhan valley, heading in the same direction. They come from Seattle in the US, have been on the road for over a year, and are riding their classic Honda 600R’s starting from Cape Town, traversing Africa and now making their way into Central Asia. Their next goal is to cross China to reach Southeast Asia. What an adventure, right? We’d call it bad ass! They are not just a lovely couple, but also incredibly humble about their accomplishments. And they show to everyone that real adventures are still out there. You just have to set out and make it happen.
Day 70 - Camping. We tackled the trail with enthusiasm; the flat gravel allowed us to pick up some speed, and before long, we discovered an ideal camping location high in the Wakhan valley, near the Bibi Fatimo hot springs (thanks, iOverlander app). Our campsite offered stunning views of the valley below, the towering peaks of Pakistan, the Wakhan Corridor, and the border river that divides Afghanistan from Tajikistan. Earlier, we had purchased food and water in the village, and we prepared our signature dish of melted cheese and bread while soaking in the beautiful scenery.
