Through the Hindu Kush to Band-e Amir
Days 57, 58 and 59, 10500 km
Day 57 - Our first task was to refule in Chagcharan for the long journey to the Band e Amir nature reserve. The sandy track was fleeter then before and we had fun flying our bikes over the sand. We sit while the track is flat, we stand to better absorb the bumps. The route took us to our highest elevation yet at 3500m. Unfortunately, we didn’t really have time to celebrate because Gion’s bike suddenly stopped working. The good news is we were at the mountain's peak and could roll it down. The bad news? We hadn’t seen a motorcycle shop for hours. We attempted to jump start the bike by rolling it down the pass, but to no avail. Some pushing got us to a lovely small village of sheep farmhouses where we had to repair the bike: we were in the heart of Afghanistan, in the middle of nowhere. We were hours of rough track away from a mechanic. We needed to get the thing to work! We decided to clean the air filter and replace the spark plug, which should have been done long before the 9800 km we had already traveled. After half an hour, we tested the bike, and luckily it seemed to be running again. The spark plug was pitch black, and we figured that was the issue; we urgently needed to adjust the fuel/air mix. By then, it was 17:00, too late to ride for another 2 hours. Fortunately, a farmer came by, noticed our repairs, and offered us a place to stay for the night. We happily accepted.
Day 57 evening - We were incredibly fortunate that night; the warmth of one person's hospitality turned it into an unforgettable evening here in central Afghanistan. Ali spends the summer months here with his family, allowing the sheep to graze. Chickens are running around everywhere, the cow is next door, and the neighbours Labrador is playing with the old sheepdog. Just as the sun sets, numerous herds of sheep come down from the mountains, guided into the barns by the women and children. Ali's family lives here with twelve other families in the simplest of traditional homes made from mud and grass bricks. There’s no electricity or running water. We're at an altitude of 3000 meters, and after we had a tea and chat, Ali warms up the family room where we eat and sleep. He uses fuel pellets made from animal manure in the stove in the middle of the room. Before long, it becomes super cozy and warm. We have dinner on traditional rugs spread out on the floor and sleep on toshaks, which are floor cushions or narrow mattresses commonly used as beds or sofas here in Afghanistan. Two layers of heavy blankets keep us snug and warm; we haven't slept this well in ages. Before we say goodbye, we take some pictures with the family. Ali rides his son on a motorcycle for 30 minutes to the nearest village for school, and we ride off to Band e Amir National Park.
Day 58 - The journey from Ali's home to Band e Amir was absolutely amazing. We climbed to altitudes of up to 3600 m and then descended into lush green valleys that looked like a blend of Utah and Kazakhstan. It’s a beautiful mix of rolling dune-like hills, towering mountains, and striking rock formations. The colors shift from red to yellow to grey to white. In the valleys, you can find villages with traditional brownish homes and vibrant green fields. It feels like cruising through an open-air nature museum. The views are stunning, with charming villages positioned neatly on the valley flanks, with blue stream winding through the green fields. It’s hard to ignore the impact of 30 years of war here, leaving behind a lot of sorrow. Development has come to a standstill. On the bright side, the villages are still in their original state, likely unchanged for centuries. The absence of paved roads while driving through central Afghanistan means that commerce and progress are lacking, but it also helps preserve the peace, traditions, and sustainable way of life.
Day 59 - Bandar e Amir is the first national park in Afghanistan aimed at showcasing and preserving the stunning beauty of a series of vibrant blue lakes formed by natural dams in the Hindu Kush. We kicked off the morning by exploring the lakes on a pédalo - believe it or not, the Taliban are starting to promote tourism here - and then we cruised through the incredible landscape, uncovering more of this awe-inspiring spot. The pédalo adventure was quite a scene, as armed Taliban soldiers don’t really blend in with the tourists from Kabul enjoying their Pédalos. Plus, some of the soldiers looked eager to snap a few photos with their AK 47 against the gorgeous backdrop. So, that’s how it went. Surreal to say the least. We then set off towards Bamyan, crossing the plateaus that offered breathtaking views of the lakes and the surrounding Hindu Kush mountain ranges.
