Parts

Fuel filter M130-6 for DR650 Acerbis tank (Guglatech) €32

*** Now sold by Purmotors 

To confirm the correct part, Guglatech asked to measure the inside and outside diameters of the tank opening and the tank cap. These measurements confirmed part M130_06-ARM.

Installation

Installation video: Guglatech

Setting it up was a breeze; you simply pop the filter into the Acerbis tank. Easy as that! The filter cap is compact, so it won’t get in the way when you close the tank.

I decided rather then buying a Chinese pre-made when bearings kit from Allballs, to use Japanese made bearing from FAG. Not sure whether they are in any way better then the Allballs, but some online comments suggest so. So that’s the way I headed to.

As for installation, I did not hammer the bearing out as suggested in many of the videos, but instead opted to use a cheapo Amazon bearing pull tool which served me well. As for installation, here as well, cheap Amazon did the trick.

Bearings

Front

17mm X 35mm X 10mm, 6003, 2X

Rear

20mm X 47mm X 14mm, 6204, 2X
25mm X 52mm X 15mm, 6205, 1X

Seals

Front left: 23 X 35 X 6 mm
Back right: 26 X47 X 5 mm
Hub/Drive seal: 34 X 52 X 6 mm

Installation

Amazing installation link: Bushpig Performance

Put bearings into freezer (1 hr)

Front wheel removal

Remove front wheel and wheel spacers. 

Pry seal out with flat screwdriver. 

Install bearing puller and pull both bearings. 

Remove spacer. 

Front wheel install

NOTE: The LEFT bearing (break disk side) is installed first and fully seated! 

Take bearing out of freezer and add applying a thin layer of grease on the outer race.

Heat the bore and surrounding area of the hub.

Place the bearing in the hole. With a socket that matches the outer race, give a few good taps to be sure the bearing is resting all the way down.

Turn the wheel and add the spacer. 

Tap in the second bearing until it slightly touches the spacer. The spacer should still be able to move slightly, but not too loose. 

Grease and press in the seal. The seal needs to be flush with the hub. 

NOTE: There is only one seal on the disk side. The closed side of the seal is outside. 

Reinstall wheel, axle to 65Nm and the nuts to 10Nm. 

Back wheel and cush drive

NOTE: The RIGHT bearing (break disk) is installed first and fully seated.

Remove and install in the same fashion. 

The cush wheel bearing is seated and has the CLOSED part of the seal INSIDE. 

On the back wheel, the seal is only on the break disk side and the CLOSED side of the seal is towards the INSIDE. 

The Tractionator comes in a 130/80 17 size, as opposed the standard 120/90 17, and it's a tubeless tire. It mounted up nicely, though. Next time, I might give the Rallz a shot since it’s available as a tube-type tire.

For the front, I settled for the Metzeler MC360 Mid Hard due to the stellar review of RTW Paul. The MC360 should perform well 60/40 and last over 8000km when being easy in the gas. Time will tell.

Gion will probably settle for the Mitas E07 which are equally stellar long distance dual sport tires.

Here are some of the other tire combinations I considered:

• R: Motoz Tractionator Adventure or Rallz / F: Metzeler MC360

• R: Heidenau K60 Scout / F: TKC 80 or MT21

• R: Shinko 805 / F: Shinko 804

• R: Mitas E07 / F: Mitas E10

• R: Shinko 244 / F: Shinko 244

Tire pressure

Front: 22 Psi
Rear: 25 Psi

Parts

Tires
Front: Metzeler MC360 Mid Hard 90/90 21 € 62
Rear: Motoz Tractionator Adventure 130/80 17 € 130

Tubes 
Heidenau Cross (3mm) 90/90-21 and 130/80-17 2 x € 20

Installation

Helpful video: Bret Tkacs ADV and again Bret Tkacs ADV or Woodmaz Adventures

I used my trail stand and trail tools to imitate the conditions of a tire change or tube rÉpair on the road.

Removal

Remove wheel.

Lubricate rim and bead with WD40 or dish soap.

Remove valve and let air out.

Break the bead. Use knees to push tire down. Turn wheel and break other side as well. 

Put knees on tire edge, tire between legs, lift tire over rim in small steps. Make sure opposite bead is in valley!

Reach inside the rim, remove the tube.

Hold tire vertically, use both tire irons from inside and lift bead over edge. At this point, use the knee to press tire off the rim. Also here, make sure the opposite bead is in the valley. 

Remount

Use talc powder on new tire and tube.

Lubricate rim edge and bead edge with WD40 or dish soap.

Check tire direction!

Put tire with with one side in the valley and slap on the other side. Press down with hands or use tire spoons to push over the edge. 

Make sure one valve stem nut is fixed on the stem holding down the washer. So one nut will be inside the tire! 

Insert tube in tire. In order to put the valve stem in, grab the tube to push it under the other bead side to have access to the valve stem and hole. Once the stem is in the hole, push bead back over the tube. 

Add second washer to valve stem. 

Put stem towards you and start spooning in the tire. Once 75% is in, turn the wheel and add some sockets in between bead and the rim. These sockets keep the bead in the valley. 

Flip wheel and finish job. 

Air up

Add a little bit of air without the valve in to seat the tube. Let air out. 

Add valve. Air up again a bit more. Check the tube is in no place under the bead. 

Let air out again. 

Air up to full pressure. Make sure the bead popped on and the thin line on the tire is visible all around the tire. 

Add valve cover and move washer upwards to hold against the valve cover! 

So, I decided to upgrade to a more substantial screw on option. The installation was straightforward, but I still need to test it out on the road to see how effective it really is.

Parts

Ali Express Windscreen € 50

Installation

Helpful video and info: Xitomer windscreen install

Position the windshield on the DR650 screen. I just used my eyes for accuracy.

Use a sharpie to mark the drilling spots through the four holes.

Take measurements of the four spots from top, bottom, left and right borders, making any necessary adjustments.

Reposition the screen and double-check everything one last time.

Start by drilling with a small bit (like 2mm), then switch to the final 5mm bit.

Finally, attach the windshield.

I've had the Precision Motorcycle rear rack on my bike and I really dig it. It's been super reliable and pairs nicely with my Giant Loop Coyote saddlebag. But since I'm switching back to my regular Kriega side bags, I needed to get some pannier racks.

After trying out the Giant Loop system during the summer rides, I realized I actually like the regular side-loading panniers better than the top-loading Coyote.

I went with the Outback Motortek pannier racks as they have mounting points for the Kriega OS32 bags integrated on the frame (amazing!!) and as such no OS platform is required. But as I tried to mount them, it turns out they don't play nice with the Precision Motorcycle top rack: I just couldn’t make the alignment work! What a bummer (and two hours of heavy swearing in the garage :)

Welcome to the B&B rear rack!

I was looking into what the Outback Motortek rack works with and came across the B&B rear rack. I decided to order it, and it fits perfectly with the Outback Motortek pannier rack! I just had to use four mounting screws on each side to secure the rear rack and the pannier frames. It’s a flawless fit—no spacers needed. I’m super stoked!

Note that in order to make the pannier rack fit, it needed to be mounted on TOP of the rear rack mounting points and on TOP of the passenger foot pegs.

Parts

Outback Motortek pannier racks € 250
B&B off-road engineering rear carry rack € 170
B&B off-road engineering luggage plate € 95

Installation carry rack

Helpful videos and info: Outback Motortek

Remove old rack, passenger grips, footrests.

Position the B&B rear rack yet without screws.

Test fit the pannier rack. 2 screws in the back, also securing the rear rack, two screws on the passenger footrest mounting points.

Once test fitted, remove, grease, remount and tighten screws.

Connect luggage plate to carry rack. 

Parts

Steel braided line (Hessler): €75
Putoline brakefluid DOT 5.1 (Hessler): €20

Changing the brake line

Video from the community : Buchanan Racing

Better take photos of how everything is put together :)

Open brake fluid cylinder, and empty brake fluid with a syringe.

Remove brake line (my screws were super tight, I mean super super tight, I only managed to open them with WD-40 and heat).

Put the new brake line in, tighten the screws, hand tight, and position the break line, so it runs without any tension.

Torque the bolts on brake cylinder and on the brake pads to 23 Nm.

Bleeding the brakes

Stabilise the motorcycle, especially the front fork.

Slip an 8 mm wrench and a catch hose over the bleeder valve.

Fill the reservoir up with brake fluid.

Open the bleeder valve and push the brake lever multiple times until there is fluid coming out, close to breather valve.

Repeat, until no more air bubbles are visible: 

1. Open valve
2. Push brake lever
3. Close valve
4. Release brake lever

Repeat. Top off brake fluid in the cylinder. Once no more air bubbles are visible in the catch hose, top off, brake fluid, and close the reservoir.

Parts

Procycle lowered foot pegs $180

Installation break side (right)

Helpful videos and info: Biker Bits

Remove the old footrests.

Attach the new footrests using the screws supplied (with Loctite blue).

Remove the pin and the adjustment clip and grind off the adjustment rod by approx. 3 to 5 mm.

Adjust the pedal so that the tip of the paddle is horizontal in relation to the footrest. Do not fasten the bolt yet!

Remove the original brake light spring and replace it with the one supplied. Make sure that the length is correct so that the brake light illuminates when the pedal is pressed.

Now push in the pin, attach the cutter pin and secure the lock nut on the adjusting rod.

Installation shifter side (left)

Remove old foot pegs.

Fix new foot pegs with supplied bolts (using loctite blue).

Remove the shift lever and install it in a lower position.

Check wearing motorcycle boots whether the position is correct and mark position on the shift and lever for future reference.

Time to upgrade the headlight bulb!

Update NOV 2024: The cold white Technoglobe lights worked great during the many ride in summer. However, cold white does not match the DR’s 80tis vibe and is not up to my taste. I searched around for the same type of easy to install LED’s, but in warm white or yellow. I found them at Laser.car in France (see parts).

Parts

Cold white: Technoglobe H4 €50
Warm white: Laser.car H4 Classic war white €90 (set of 2)

Option: Cyclops. But not being a fan of additional boxes, I tried to find an LED without fan and without box.

Installation

Helpful installation video from the DR community : Rides For Days

Remove headlight cowl.

Remove 10 screws on the headlight frame.

Pull headlight forward and down to access the bulb.

Remove and reinstall bulb cover and bulb.

Reinstall everything and enjoy the light :)